motorcycle fork gaiters sale
Min. Order: 1 piece Motorcycle Rubber Fork Cover Gaiters Gators Boots ... For Before conversion shock protection sleeve / ... Min. Order: 1 piece All Back Country model FREE SHIPPING anywhere in the US, and all APO military addresses! Harley Davidson motorcycles are a tough fit for "universal fit" hand covers due to the under-bar mounted turn signals, the... We are proud to introduce our newest model of Hippo Hand, the Back Country. It is a small, efficient, easy... Very nice, fit perfectly. I used hose clamp rather than zip ties I think these look amazing. Item was exactly as described. Not a very clean look. The rubber looks beat up - I'll try using a armor all on it and see it that helps. Look great and rubber is soft and thick. The only thing I would like to see different is the clamping method. Look good, very soft rubber. Basic rubber fork boots, nothing more nothing less. If that's what you want on your bike, look no further.
the rubber they made of is too soft and it sags after few miles, i would had been better off with the standard off road bike covers, cheaper and more durable. New (34) from $9.63 Fast, FREE Shipping with Amazon Prime Rancho RS1952 Shock Boot FREE Shipping on orders over .
motorcycle shops in mcdonough gaDetailsExplorer Pro Comp 219200 Steering Stabilizer FREE Shipping on orders over .
motorcycle helmets matthews ncDetailsRancho RS1937 Shock Boot FREE Shipping on orders over . 9.5 x 3.5 x 3.5 inches #176,424 in Automotive (See top 100) #6 in Automotive > Performance Parts & Accessories > Shocks, Struts & Suspension > Boots & Accessories #17 in Automotive > Replacement Parts > Shocks, Struts & Suspension > Boots & Accessories 5.6 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Amazon only ships this item within the contiguous 48 United States. Other Sellers on Amazon may ship this item to Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories. This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More Rancho Shock Boots are Available in Red, Blue, Yellow or Black and in 9.5" and 12.5" lengths. They are made in rubber material that provides protection to exposed shock absorber shafts against flying rocks, dirt, and mud, while enhancing the appearance of your suspension. You can off-road with confidence when your shocks are protected with shock boots. Installed these as fork gators on a1994 BMW K75. Good fit (after trimming the split end off) and the look and perform well. As described, shipped quickly, fit perfectly.. Great shock boots at a great price Described as a universal fit but both end have same size hole which doesn't match the Bilstien steering damper I bought. Put these on when I got new shocks. They are large, so if you're running bigger tires or a lift, they will still fit.
looks pretty good on my bike. I split these so I didn't have to take my forks apart. My forks were little bigger but I used some zip ties. Replaced my steering shock boot on my F-350, It was a replacement of a Rancho shock boot. Easy to install and to keep the shock strut clean in dirty operatons. Set up an Amazon Giveaway Learn more about Amazon GiveawayThis page is about the BMW motorcycle models R50/US, R60/US, R69US, R50/5, R60/5, R75/5, R50/6, R60/6, R75/6, R90/6, R90S, R60/7, R75/7, R80/7, R100/7, This page is for changing BMW motorcycle fork seals and oil. It is not to be used for changing the fork springs. They are their own thing and I highly suggest that you refer to my page on springs can get you in big trouble with fork alignment. The fork seals should be changed when they are found to be leaking. No huge safety problem exists because of leaky fork seals. leak enough then maybe the dampening function of the forks would be lost.
By that time the whole front end would have been filthy dirty for years. You may test them for leaks often, it takes only seconds. Grab the boot midway (just above where you can feel the lower fork leg casting) and pinch the rubber till you have the fork tube held in your fingers. Now try to slide the boot up and down. A clean boot won't slide on aThat means that the seal isn't leaking. oily boot will slide rather easily. To learn the difference, check out several similar bikes at the next group gathering. around and try them. I have never tested 5 and found all of them to be dry, you will find one, or more, that is easy to slide. possible that someone replaced the seal, without cleaning or replacing the old fork boots and now the inside of the boot is still oily. If you want to see the seal for an even better and more accurate inspection remove the lower clamp and lift the boot up as shown above.
see oil, then the seal is leaking to some extent. Draining the fork oil the easy way. 1. Have the bike on the center stand with the front wheel in theIf you have a Reynolds stand you need to put a 2 X 4 under each side to jack it up. The tire needs to be about 2" off of the floor, unless you are going to remove it and then it only needs to clear slightly. For safety reasons, tie the center stand forwards so that the bike can't roll off of it. Center stand tied in the "down" position for safety. 2. Remove the front wheel and set aside. necessary if you are changing the gators. If only the oil, then the wheel may stay on and save time. It will be much heavier to lift the assembly with the wheel back into place, but it can be done. beginner I recommend removing the wheel. I like to remove the wheel so that I can inspect the brakes too. By "the assembly" I mean the fender, brace, rear fender brace, and fork legs or castings.
all stay bolted together and it saves time. 3. Remove the small black rubber dust covers from the bottom of Screwdriver touching the cover 3. Remove the fork caps on the top. That is the fork cap on the left and a cap wrench on the right. If you look carefully you can see that one of the pins on my wrench fell out. Now I improvise, until I find another one. Do not use a hammer andYou can stick two drill bits in the holes and a lever betweenThe bits must be held firmly in place. 3. Get two containers ready to catch the fork oil. you have never done it this way before, then you are in for a surprise. The oil is going to come out of there in two seconds. the catch containers ready and waiting. I use ones made out of two old paper oil cans. I have a handle or hook that I hook over theThere is little room for the oil to splash, as it goes directly into the containers. If you use containers on the floor,
Some of the oil will splash. 4. Look up under where the rubber dust cover was. You will see this from below Use a 4 mm Allan wrench to hold the center. Use a standard 13 mm offset box end wrench on the nut. special tool is made by Joe for this job and quite inexpensive. Now it will look like this. Hold the Allan wrench to keep the center from turning. 13 mm nut and washer from each side. 5. All that is holding the fork legs up is the jammed on crush washers on each side. You can't see the crush washers at this time, they are on the inside. The fork springs are now trying to shove the whole assembly down. If the wheel is off, the boots will keep the assembly from falling all of the way to the floor. Bump the fork brace downwards. The whole assembly will drop a couple of inches and all of the oil will gush out almost instantly. If you are only changing oil, then lift the assembly back up, attach the 13
mm nuts and washers. Be very careful to not over tighten the 13 mm nut. They strip easily and maybe it will be the nut and maybe the threads on the damper, not nice. the rubber plugs back on, remove the top cap for fork oil filling. That is what it looks like once the cap is off. Joe also makes a tool for this job. See the messed up fork retainer bolt? That is from some idiot using a Cresent wrench and letting it slip off. that part, or you will have big troubles. You will have a really big job ahead of you. You can learn more about that job if you go to my page on That's how you can put the oil back into the fork leg. book for the proper amount. It need not be exact, as it just isn'tIt is better to have 20 cc to little oil than too much. I pre measure the fork oil in containers when I buy a gallon. ready for future use. Wasn't that an easy job? Many seem to want to replace the crush washers each time the fork oil is
In the shop we didn't do it. There is really no reason and only adds time and money to the customers bill. "Look at the deformed crush washers" and they are correct. deformed, but the assembly goes back on and the deformed washer "forces" it back the same way and it won't leak. If you want to replace the crush 6. Loosen the upper boot clamps and slide the boots down and off of the lower triple tree. The assembly can be lowered to the floor. 7. I like to use a helper at this point. tilt the bike over about 1/2 way. That gives room for the other person to drop the assembly out and away from the fork tubes. have no helper, use a 4 X 6 on the floor to lay the cylinder head on. The bike is only on it's side for a minute or so. 8. Remove the boots and replace. They must be pried off as they will be reallyIt is a good idea and causes no harm. replace them and they don't leak. See the "smashed" copper colored crush washer?
picture of the piston damper rod end. 9. While the legs are off this is a great time to test for forkSee my page on this 10. To get the seals out only requires a tire iron, pry bar or lever, as in a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the aluminum. Click on the photo and see how the seal is level. To install the new seal I use the 3/4" drive socket that is a bit smaller than the seal diameter. Keep it straight and gently drive it in until it is flush with the metal. Smear a drop of oil on the inside of each seal before re-installing the assembly on the fork legs. If you are using the old boots that have oil on the inside, clean them out or my test above won't work. will feel oily and indicating a bad seal, but it is new and not really leaking. 11. Reassemble in reverse order. Before you put the wheel in place, check to see that the axle goes in totally freely. Do not over tighten the axle nut, or you may